Stepping inside Cloudstreet, you immediately understand why Cheek by Jowl, despite all its success, wasn’t enough. Cloudstreet is the purest expression of who Rishi is – his composition, complexities and contradictions. It’s deeply personal, with pieces of him littered throughout the bigger and bolder space: his paintings of women in the nude line the walkway to the powder room; chandelier from the former restaurant is now draped in fabric softens the rays passing through the skylight; and the glossy emerald tiles that serve as the backdrop to the open kitchen should trigger some association with the old Cheek.
The food is Rishi on a plate, remixed in his own special way. It takes you on a journey of the different cultures and influences, breaking away from the modern-Australian cocoon he was contained within at Cheek. The metamorphosis is apparent from the first bite of grilled Coffin Bay oyster wrapped in betel leaf swimming in a pool of coconut milk and finished with citrusy pops of finger lime. This inventive streak that blends disparate worlds continues throughout the meal. The expertly grilled Western Australian marron served with millet cooked in a mellow Sri Lankan yellow curry is all at once familiar, comforting and extraordinary. As is the grilled lamb saddle, even though it’s easily overshadowed by the smoky and meaty parcel of roasted young jackfruit next to it. But the most understated star comes in the form of a loaf of bread. Rye flour is mixed with local stout to make a dense, almost cake-like bun that’s glazed with molasses. It’s perfect on its own, but when nibbled between sips of 2008 Claus Preisinger Paradigma, its liquorice notes sing.
Just like food, the wine programme is impressive, featuring over 350 labels of mostly small, independent winemakers as well as classics. Curated by sommelier Vinodhan Veloo, who was most recently at Odette, pairing options are available alongside Cloudstreet’s five ($168) and seven-course ($198) menu. Fans of a power lunch can also head down from noon for a three ($68) or five-course ($118) powwow.
“I’ve been waiting my whole career for this,” Rishi says at some point during the meal. But he doesn’t need to. His heart and soul are written into the walls of Cloudstreet. The obsessive attention to detail – in design, service, food and drink – can only be found in a place by someone who’s spent his whole life dreaming of this restaurant.
Opening hours:
Mon-Fri noon-2pm, 6pm-9pm;
Sat 6pm-9pm


06:00 PM - 09:00 PM

Tanjong Pagar

84 Amoy St Singapore 969903

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